Sonntag, 28. August 2016

Step-by-step... painting Hans

Started with a German Grey base color. Well diluted... should take a couple of layers to cover.
The way I am applying the color is to drag the diluted paint across the area where I am painting and to push that small drop of paint into a fold or a corner or something where the shadow color would be really strong.

Then used some German Grey with a little bit of Green Grey and roughly applied it to areas where the coat would catch some light.


At this point it is really more sketching than fine, controlled painting... I intensified the shadow areas with a mix of German Grey and Black (also diluted Black Ink) and I started sketching out the lights mix a pretty light color with a lot more Green Grey in it. 


Back view


Over the next few pictures you can see how I go back and forth between the following steps: 

* build out highlights and scratches going all the way to pure Green Grey and sometimes to Bonewhite
* soften the highlight transitions with various mid-tones of light grey and mid-grey
* intensifying shadows with dark greys and black
* correcting mistakes over and over again and sometimes also correcting the position and size of highlight or shadow areas  


Back view


Slowly, slowly making progress


Back view


I also vary the dilution of the paint during this process. I will use strongly diluted color to soften out transitions. I will use somewhat diluted color to paint sharper highlights or shadows. And I will use almost undiluted color to paint really small, sharp lines and dots for final highlights and shadows.


Back view 


To make the coat a bit more interesting, I applied strongly diluted brown ink to the upper half and strongly diluted blue ink to the lower half.
If anyone can explain to me why this picture came out more blue in general than the others, I would appreciate a hint. Same iPhone, same light, same time of day, etc.... Weird.


Back view


The uniform jacket got painted using German Fieldgrey as a base. Mixed in Sunny Skin Tone for highlights and Black for shadows.


Painted the buttons and the ribbon on his chest first with Black. Then used white for painting the sides of the ribbon and for placing highlights on the buttons.


As I had Sunny Skin Tone on my palette anyway, I mixed it with Brown Ink and a bit of water. Used this diluted mix to put on multiple layers as the base color for the face. Make sure to let each layer dry completely before you put on the next.


Added in Black to the mix and painted the eye sockets. 


Increased the lights on the upper half of the face using Sunny Skin Tone.


New day, fresh palette for continuing with the face. On here we have Sunny Skintone, Iraqui Sand, Brown Ink, Blue, Yellow, Red and Black.


Explaining the exact process is kind of difficult, because I don't follow a series of exact, fixed steps. I alternate between painting lights, shadows or mid-tones and using highly diluted, reds, yellows, greens, etc. to glaze in additional color tones. 

At this picture here, I have not yet glazed in any crazy colors. Only used Sunny Skin Tone, Brown Ink and Iraqui Sand.


Still working on overall lights and shadows...


Starting to mix in reds around the cheeks:


Glazing in green-grey tones in the lower third of the face.


Intensifying some of the red and greenish glazes...


Rebuilding some of the lights and painting in some stronger shadows, then glazing again.


Status update from my palette.


Cleaned up &  corrected some of the lights and shadows. Happy with the facial expression now. :) 
I have to admit that it is very hard for me to get all the lights and shadows exactly right the first time. I am not a natural talent when it comes to that. So what I have to do instead is to do trial and error quite a bit. I paint a light or a shadow somewhere and chances are that I don't get it right... so I keep working and correcting to get it looking the way I want. Sometimes it goes really fast and sometimes I will paint over an area over and over again many times until it looks more or less like I want. It can be painful. ;)


More minor corrections...


Different angle



Painted the trousers with Bronze Green as the base color. Added in ###Grey and Bonewhite for the highlight color and Black for the shadows.



Time to paint the Officer's Hat. For this, I used the same colors as for the trousers (Bronze Green, ###Grey, Black and Bonewhite) but applied them in different ratios as I wanted to get a darker color overall for it. The lines at the rim and the emblems got a base with Black and then straight Bonewhite on top of it.


Different angle:



Painted the collar with Black and Bonewhite:


Using English Uniform, Dark Red and Dark Sand, I painted the left hand. For the pistol I used Black and White (and a tiiiny bit of blue in the last highlights). For the gloves, I mixed a light-grey color on my palette from what was already on the palette:


Update from the palette:


Moving on to the base.... Again, just using what I have on the palette, I slab on different colors and blend them wet-in-wet. For the sack, I used primarily English Uniform, Black and Dark Sand... also painting mostly wet-in-wet at this point:


Next, I started adding greenery to the base. First a a few of the small grass tufts from MiniNatur. This this I added some of the grass&flock from Galeforce nine. I also glued on some small "leaves" which are essentially birch seeds that I collected sometime ago. When all of the glue was dry, I added some heavily thinned washes of grey green and sprinkled on the pigment (pastel chalk powder) that you see in the middle of the picture below.


Fertig!  












Freitag, 19. August 2016

Step-by-step.... painting Roy

So Roy is the first miniature from Wave 2 which I decided to paint. Such a lovely sculpt and a lot of fun while painting.

Here is a step-by-step for how I tried to make Roy come to life:

1) Started off with a base of Green Brown (MC879) and Green Ochre (MC914). Mixed in Khaki (MC988) for lights and English Uniform (MC921) for shadows (and some Black for rough darklining):


Same stage as previous picture. Nothing has to be perfect at this point. Just a general placement of light and shadow:


2) Starting on the camo, I used Reflective Green (MC890) and Bronze Green (MC897) for painting the green patches:


Painted them first with heavily thinned paint putting many small streaks next to each other. Then went on to less dilution to carefully intensify the patches with more, veeery thin lines:


3) Using the same technique for adding brown patches: Flat Brown (MC984)  and Mahagony Brown (MC846):


4) Created a very thin mix of the browns and greens used so far and added a tiny bit of black. Using this to intensify shadows overall on the jacket:


5) Painted more lights with Buff (MC976) and more shadows with dark brownish tones. Also started mixing in Yellow Ink and glazed over light and mid-tone areas with a yellowish-brownish-light tone. Doing this only in some areas in order to make the whole camo look more interesting with a few warm-colored parts now. Using Blue Ink and previous dark brown tones, I am doing the same for some of the shadow areas:


Same status as previous pic... To get to this stage, I went back and forth between intensifying lights and shadows with thinned down paints, glazing over mid-tones where I think it's a good idea and glazing in warm and cold tones to increase contrast a little:


6) With Flat Brown, Mahagoni Brown, English Uniform and Buff I alread have everything on my palette that I need to get the face started. I mixed the above colors together, so that I had a nice reddish dark brown. I thinned this down quite a bit and put on two layers into all shadow and mid-tone areas. Then I mixed a very light color with Buff and Flat Brown and blocked in the lights on forehead, nose, cheekbones, etc.:


Different angle:


7) Well, after the last picture I kind of got lost while painting and forgot to take more pictures of the face painting process. :( As you can see, some magic happened along the way. ;) I used Flat Brown, Mahagony Brown, Buff and White to paint the general lights and shadows of the face. Then I used Yellow, Red and Blue Ink to add different tones to the face. Usually I go back and forth a bit between building out lights and shadows, glazing some areas with different colors and then going adding mid-tones and lights, etc....:


Different angle:


8) Painted the beret with Red (MC947), Dark Red, (MC946), Flat Brown (MC984) and Black. I also blocked in the dark-grey base color for his hair. I love this moment when you paint a miniature and the face starts popping out really nicely as you put on color in the areas around it. :)


9) To paint the insignia on the beret, I painted the whole insignia black. Following a simple method for painting golden insignia from Ruben Torregrosa, I chose Golden Brown (MC877) as a base color. For lights I simply added white and for the shadows I used Flat Brown (MC984):


10) Next, I moved on to working on the trousers. I started by intensifying the shadow areas with English Uniform. I also started mixing Blue Ink in to get darker shadows in a cold tone. I then started building out the lights using Green Ochre (MC914) mixed with white. Pure Green Ochre to help balance out the mid-tones. I also painted a few semi-transparent layers of red in some of the mid-tone and light areas. This did a few tricks at the same time: It introduced yet another color tone to break monotony AND it contrasts really nicely with the cold shadows that I painted previously:


11) Painted the anklets with Green Grey (MC886), Iraqui Sand (MC819) and Dark Sand (MC847) (in that order working towards lighter areas). Then used English Uniform (MC921) for shadows.
For the boots, I simply thinned down black very heavily and before the thin mix can dry on the miniature, I swipe the boot caps with my finger. Then I do a few more passes with the thin black paint, but only on the sides and at the back. In the lighter front part of each boot, I place a few irregular small dots in a light color (whatever is on the palette at that point).
I have to admit that I absolutely hate painting feet. No one ever looks at feet... well, maybe some people do, but that is not the point. The point is that I just hate painting feet! :)


12) Painted the webbing incl. some of the small bags, etc. with a base of Green Grey (MC886). Applied a controlled wash with Russian Green (MC894) and then built up mid-tones and highlights with Green Grey and another very light pastel green color (MC971):


13) Blocked out the pistol and Sten gun with black and painted the leather strap of the sten with German Camo Black Brown (MC822). Painted highlights with the same pastel green color that I used for the webbing highlights (MC971), added in highlight dots and tiny scratches with Bone White. Finally used Blue Ink and the brown base color in a mix and well diluted to glaze in shadows where I wanted the strap to look darker:


14) Painted the Pistol and the Sten Gun with Black and Bonewhite first. Starting from a dark grey - almost black base - and building up highlight by mixing more and more Bonewhite into the mix. Finally added Silver Metallic dots and lines in some places. Also used Black with random Greens and Browns mixed in (whatever is on the palette) to do darklining on the whole miniature:


15) For the base, I mixed together some of the brown, green and yellow tones that I still had on my palette and created a base where I blended all of them wet-in-wet. Next, I dry-brushed with Bonewhite and a bit of Golden Brown. Once that was all dry, I used thinned-down wood glue on parts of the base and sprinkled on my "homegrown" grass-and-stuff mix (contains different sizes and colors of grass, flock and old tobacco). After that, I also glued on a couple of grass tufts from MiniNatur. Finally, I applied a few washes with very thinned down browns and greens and finished it up by putting on some brown dry pigments, which I rubbed into some parts of the base and over the boots:



And done:



If you have questions or comments, fire away.

If you want to get a copy of Roy, check out the Stoessi's Heroes Reseller page or stop by our online store.